Thanksgiving is a bit of a mixed blessing for wine lovers. Sure, it's one of the few days of the year when family and friends gather to enjoy a large meal, the perfect occasion for wine. The problem is wine has a tough time pairing up with all the divergent flavors of the traditional roast turkey dinner - from the caramelized bird to the cranberry sauce.

But beer, the humblest of all beverages, is also the most versatile. The greater range of ingredients in beer often allows it to pair with a wider range of foods.

Amber ales and Vienna lagers go well with the caramelized and roasted flavors in turkey and do not clash with buttery, sweet or tart flavors of side dishes. Some suggestions: Abita Amber Lager, Mendocino Red Tail Ale, Honey Amber Rose and Boulder Beer's Singletrack Copper Ale. Or for the freshest beer available, seek out any locally brewed red or amber ale.

Strong golden ales also make a fine accompaniment to a roast turkey dinner, but their higher alcohol can impart spicy flavor notes that may not suit all palates. Good candidates include North Coast's PranQster Belgian, Unibroue's Don de Dieu or La Fin Du Monde, Allagash Grand Cru and Duvel. These beers go well with fried turkey, too.

For smoked turkey, try a porter or Scotch ale such as Anchor Porter, Sierra Nevada Porter and McEwans Scotch Ale, or try for a mix of the two styles and reach for Flying Dog's Road Dog Scottish Porter.

Darker meats like duck and goose are richer in flavor and call for richer beers. For duck, a bottle of Allagash Dubbel Reserve works nicely, while goose pairs well with German-style bocks such as Rogue's Dead Guy Ale.

If the holiday meal calls for Salmon or other firm fish, reach for Penn's Dark Lager Beer. Penn's dunkel style lager is malty and rich, but without the hop-bitterness that would overwhelm the fish.

Weizenbocks such as Schneider Aventinus pair wonderfully with holiday ham, which is usually prepared with fruit and cloves, flavors that are abundant in Weizenbocks.

A leg of lamb provides the perfect pairing for American pale ale. Mendocino's Blue Heron Pale Ale, Flying Dog's Doggie Style Classic Pale Ale and Dogfish Head's Shelter Pale Ale are all good choices. A hop heavy brown ale such as Avery's Ellie's Brown Ale or Dogfish Head's Indian Brown Ale complement the roasted flavors of lamb as well.

Proper presentation increases the enjoyment of any beer, so lose the pint glasses for Thanksgiving and break out the fancy glassware. Old fashioned thistle glasses make excellent beer receptacles as do any chalice or tulip-shaped glasses. If you don't have those feel free to use wine glasses; it's not a crime.

To encourage sharing, purchase larger bottles such as the numerous 22 ounce or 750 ml size or pour several smaller bottles into a glass pitcher. Just don't use too much. Six to twelve ounces per person is ideal to start.

- Joseph J.M. Redner is a Tampa resident and world beer traveler.